HOROLOGICAL TERMS

HOROLOGICAL TERMS

Albert Watch Chain usually attached to a wasitcoat

Arbor A shaft or spindle

Arcaded Minute Ring Type of arched decoration commonly used by Dutch makers

Automatic Watch wound by the movement of the wearer

Automation Watch Watch (usually a repeater) with figures or other devices that move

Balance Wheel that controls the going of the watch

Balance Spring Spiral spring that regulates time keeping

Balance Staff Arbor to which the inner end of the balance spring is attached

Barrel Barrel shaped box that houses the main spring

Bezel Rim that holds the watch glass

Calendar Feature that indicates the day, date, year

Calibre Specification of the type and size of the watch

Cartouche Dial Engraved metal dial on which numerals appear in black or blue on white enamel plaques

Centre Seconds Second hand central to the main dial often pivoted with the hour minute hands at the centre

Champleve Enamel Decoration in which the area of metal is hollowed out and filled with enamel

Chinese Market Watches made specifically for the Chinese Market commonly with Duplex escapement and centre seconds and often finely enamelled

Chapter Ring Ring marked with hours, minutes or half or quarter hours

Chasing Method of decoration using hammers and punches to push metal into a relief pattern

Chronograph Watch with a centre seconds hand that functions as a stop watch

Chronometer Watch with a detente escapement also a Swiss term for a very accurate movement

Clockwatch Watches which have an extra train and will chime hours and often quarters as the hands rotate

Cloissone Decoration in which the enamel is fired into claisons or compartments outlines in flat metal wire

Cock Plate one end of which supports the balance staff the other of which is fixed to the movement plate

Compensation Balance Balance that compensates for change in temperature

Consular Case Case that resembles a pair case with a high rounded glass. Popular in France and introduced during and supposedly named after the period when Napoleon was Consul.

Crabtooth Duplex Duplex escapement on which the teeth on the locking wheel resemble crabs claws used mainly on watches intended for export to China

Cuvette Inner hinged and sprung cover used to protect the movement

Cylinder Escapement that is laid out horizontally allowing for slimmer designed watches

Date Aperture Small opening on the dial through which the date is displayed

Detent Component used on a chronometer primarily to minimise the escape wheel’s interference with the balance

Dial Plate Plate to which the dial is fixed

Digital Dial Dial without hands on which hours and minutes are instead shown by numerals inside windows

Duplex Escapement with two sets of teeth one for locking one for giving impulse

Dust Cover Is an early form of dust proving the movement and it fits over the movement and is locked into place with a slide most often made in gilt metal and occasionally silver sometimes signed by the maker

Ebauche Rough or partly finished movement

Enamel Type of decoration used to decorate outside of cases and used on dials

Endstone Jewel set in a ring in the cock against which a pivot end bears

En-Grisaille Painted decoration using a black and white palette and resembling a print

Engine Turning Decorative textured patterns created by turning metal on a machine driven lathe

Escapement Part of the movement that controls the driving power and gives impulse to the balance

Escape Wheel Last wheel in the train that gives impulse to the balance

Flyback Hand Hand that flys back to zero or to join another hand

Foot Part of the cock that is fixed to the plate

Form Watch Watch with case that resembles another object

Freesprung A term used when the regulator has been omitted and the hairspring is set up by the watchmaker and the owner is unable to regulate further

Fusee Conical spool that evens out the uneven pull of a mainspring as it unwinds

Gilt Metal Silver or other metal to which a thin layer of gold has been applied

Going Barrel Barrel with a wheel on the outer edge containing the mainspring

Hair Spring Common name for the balance spring

Half Hunter Case Case with a central aperture in the front lid showing the dial and hands

Helical Hair Spring Balance with spring formed into a helix often used with chronometer or detent escapement

Hunter Case or Full Hunter Case Watch case with solid cover to the dial

Indian Market Watches made for the Indian Market most often with finely enamelled and gem set cases many made for local Maharajahs often with their portraits

Jacquemart or Jack Figure or automation that strikes a bell on repeater watches

Jewelled Modern bearings of precious or semi precious stone used to reduce friction and wear

Key Implement used for winding and setting hands often of interesting designs, pistols, seals, retailers names, etc

Keyless A watch that doesn’t require a key to wind or set the hands. This is done using a crown at the top of the pendant. Invented around 1845

Lever Type of escapement in which the impulse is transmitted via a lever

Lugs Part of a wristwatch to which the strap is attached

Mainspring Spring that provides the driving power for the watch

Masonic Watch A type of watch with Masonic decoration on the case, dial or cock.

Maintaining Power Device for driving a watch movement which would otherwise stop while it was being wound

Micrometer Regulator Regulator used on the hairspring for extra fine adjustment

Mock Pendulum Small disc on one arm of the balance that moves backwards and forwards and imitates a clock pendulum

Moonphase Type of dial which shows state of waxing and waning of the moon

Motion Work The wheels and pinions found beneath the dial that drive the hands

Oignon Large and bulbous watch case made in France in the late 17th and early 18th century in gilt metal and silver

Open Face Case Case without a front cover

Pair Case Watch with two cases, inner case to house the movement and an outer protective case sometimes decorated in enamel or repousse

Pallet Part or parts of the escapement on which the escape wheel acts

Perpetual Calendar Calendar watch that allows for short months and leap years without having to manually adjust

Pinion The driven gear with teeth known as leaves

Pique (Pin work) Gold, silver or brass pins used often in a decorative pattern to secure a covering of leather or shagreen to an outer case

Power Reserve Indicator Subsidiary dial that shows the state of the winding of the watch often known as Updown Winding Indicator

Regulator Disc Disc used to adjust the spring to regulate the watch

Repeater Type of movement that chimes the time on demand

Repousse Decoration using hammers and punches to push metal into a relief pattern more precisely the secondary process of chasing metal

Rolled Gold Heavy gold plate applied to another metal

Screwback Watch Watch in which the back is screwed down rather than hinged

Self Winding or Perpetual Watch Watch would by the movement of the wearer

Subsidiary Dial Small extra dial often showing seconds set within the main dial also can be found on chronograph watches for the record of minutes elapsed

Table Cock Part of the cock that covers the balance and provides the bearing for the balance staff

Table Roller Lever Lever escapement with the impulse pin mounted on a flat disc

Train Series of wheels and pinions geared to one another that transmits the power from the mainspring to the balance

Turkish Market Watches made for Islamic (Turkish) market mostly Swiss or English often with tortoiseshell cases and the numerals on the dial in Turkish script

Verge Earliest escapement with an escape wheel that resembles a crown with triangular teeth

Watch Paper Small circular pieces of paper or fabric placed in the back of the outer pair case to protect the inner case, eliminate slack between the cases, adverising the watch maker and also often showing when the watch was last serviced